With a full log in front of a woodturner his thoughts turn to bunches of bowls. The question is how to get from the log to the lathe. With a chainsaw, it is easier than one might think.
First of all it is necessary to look at the end of the log. If there are any checks or splits they need to be cut away. A four inch cut will usually suffice unless the log has been down a long time. Then it may be that the log will have to be examined and cut with digression.
Angle Saw
Once the end has been cleared, measure the diameter and cut a section the length of the diameter. In other words, if the log is ten inches in diameter, cut a ten inch long piece. This will make two blanks.
Look at the end of the log. If you draw a line through the center you can see that this is the top of the bowl to be. The outer edge of the log has the rough curve of the bottom and sides of the bowl. Now it is time to cut the section in two.
You can stand the log on end and cut down through the center. This is hard both on the saw and the sawyer. Such a cut is called a rip cut because it works on end grain while chainsaws are designed for crosscutting. The answer for the cut is a compromise.
Lay the log on its side, preferably in a saw buck designed for this operation but certainly braced to keep it from rolling. With the saw bar at a sixty degree angle to the log, cut down through the center. This is a cut that will pull long fibres from the log instead of the chips that are common to most chainsaw cuts. These long fibres will clog the chain and the sprocket so lift the saw from the cut every now and then to allow it to clear itself. The log will fall apart at the end of the cut leaving two square surfaced bowl blanks.
If you have a twelve inch wood lathe, a common size for beginning and intermediate turners, a ten inch bowl should be no problem to mount. However, these blanks will not fit over the ways of the lathe. Quite simply, the diagonal from point to point is about fifteen inches.
The solution is to lay the bowl blank back in the saw buck and knock off the corners. Mark every third along the sides and ends of the blank. Connecting the two at each corner with the chainsaw bar, cut off the corners. An octagon results which will be obviously a bowl blank. All that remains is to rough out the bowl or wax the ends of the bowl blank to prevent splitting until you get to it.
A small chain saw makes it possible to use your wood lathe to make a bowl from log to salad container. The satisfaction just adds to the craft.
Special Price!!! Dremel 1453 Chain Saw Sharpening Attachment
Oct 21, 2011 19:07:52
Click for larger image and other views
Dremel 1453 Chain Saw Sharpening Attachment Feature
- Compatible with Dremel rotary tool models 275, 285, 395, 398 and 781
- Includes 3 sharpening stones for various saws
- Made from durable plastic and metal construction
- Includes sharpening attachment, 3 sharpening stones, gauge, 2 spacers and manual
- Convenient, light weight of only 3-1/2-Ounce
Dremel 1453 Chain Saw Sharpening Attachment Overview
Quickly and easily use your Dremel rotary tool to sharpen dull, slow-cutting chain saw blades. Includes three different sharpening stone sizes to fit most blades. For areas without convenient access to electricity, Dremel recommends using this attachment with the 10.8 Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless rotary tool. The sharpener attaches easily to most rotary tools. Enclosed gauge, spacers and 30-1/4 degree angle guide assures custom fit to most chain saws. Three sizes of sharpening stones included to fit most blade sizes. Includes Chain Saw Sharpening Attachment, #453 5/32-Inch Sharpening stone, #454 3/16-Inch Sharpening stone, #455 7/32-Inch Sharpening stone, Gauge, Spacers, Wrench, and Instructions. Fits Dremel Tool Models 400, 398, 395, 300, 285, 275, 800, 780, 770.SAVE NOW on the special offers below!
Available In Stock. |
| This Dremel 1453 Chain Saw Sharpening Attachment ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping. |
Price : Click to Check Update Prices Please. |
